Attic Conversions FAQs
Most attic conversions are exempt from planning permission because the ceilings are not high enough to qualify as “Habitable Accommodation”. However, if you wish to erect a dormer window, or to put your Velux windows to the front, then you will need planning permission.
Yes. In almost all attic conversions steel is necessary for roof support. We have come across some attics that we were asked to redo as no steel was used and the roof had sagged by up to four inches in the centre. Although we don't get many heavy snowfalls, (as in the early '80s) attic conversions without steel would be a hazard to attics in the event of such a heavy snowfall upon your attic converted roof.
An engineer's certificate is a document supplied by an engineer after a survey is carried out on the finished attic conversion. This certificate provides peace of mind for the customer as it informs you that the conversion is (in their opinion) structurally sound and within the current building regulations. Also, this certificate is required for the sale of your property and should be given to your solicitor to be placed with the deeds of the property.
The average attic conversion normally takes ten working days to complete. If, however, you are installing an en-suite add on two days. Larger attics, usually bungalows, can take up to four week's, depending on specifications and size.
Most attics are suitable for conversion and it doesn't matter if you have a truss type or hip type roof. What really matters is the height in the middle of the attic. This is a personal choice for the customer as to their attic conversion needs. As an example, the lowest attic we have converted measured five foot from the top of existing ceiling joist to the bottom of the rafter in centre of attic space. This is quite low but suited the customer for their loft conversion requirements.
Almost all roofs can be made suitable with the proper supports installed. Truss roofs are not a problem also. Usually the height in the centre is the main concern, when we view your attic we can give you the maximum height we can get from your attic space and then it is up to you to decide if this would suit for your needs. Please click here to see a picture of the lowest attic we have converted to date
We will arrange for all plumbing and electrical work to be carried out by our own tradesmen. This is included in our total price.
Most attics are suitable for conversion and it doesn't matter if you have a truss type or hip type roof. What really matters is the height in the middle of the attic. This is a personal choice for the customer as to their attic conversion needs. As an example, the lowest attic we have converted measured five foot from the top of existing ceiling joist to the bottom of the rafter in centre of attic space. This is quite low but suited the customer for their loft conversion requirements.
A Guide to Attic Conversions
A Guide to Attic Conversions

Depending on the roof structure and planning constraints, an Attic conversion is one of the most straightforward ways of getting extra space. Almost all houses can benefit from this extension with a bit of basic planning
We have tried to explain everything you will need to know about planning your Attic conversion project
Is My Attic Suitable for Conversion?
Attic Conversion Assessment
The features that will decide the suitability of the roof space for an Attic conversion are the available head height, the pitch and the type of structure, as well as any obstacles such as water tanks or chimney stacks. An inspection of the roof space will reveal its structure and physical dimensions.
Head Height
Take a measurement from the bottom of the ridge timber to the top of the ceiling joist; the useable part of the roof should be greater than 2.2m.
Pitch Angle
The higher the pitch angle, the higher the central head height is likely to be, and if dormers are used or the roof is redesigned, then the floor area can be increased.
Type of Roof Structure
Two main structures are used for roof construction — namely traditional framed type and truss section type. The traditional framed type is typically found in pre-1960s houses where the rafters and ceiling joists, together with supporting timbers, are cut to size on site and assembled. This type of structure has more structural input, so is often the most suitable type for attic conversions. The space can be easily, and relatively inexpensively, opened up by strengthening the rafters and adding supports as specified by a structural engineer.
Post 1960s, the most popular form of construction used factory-made roof trusses. These utilise thinner – and therefore cheaper timbers – but have structural integrity by the addition of braced diagonal timbers. They allow a house roof to be erected and felted in a day. However, this type of truss suggests that there are no loadbearing structures beneath, and so opening up the space requires a greater added structural input.
This will normally involve the insertion of steel beams between loadbearing walls for the new floor joists to hang on and the rafter section to be supported on — together with a steel beam at the ridge.
How Much Will my Attic Conversion Cost?
The cost of your Attic conversion will depend on your roof structure, the existing available space and whether any alterations need to be made to the floor below to accommodate the staircase.
Room in Roof Attic Conversion
A basic ‘room in roof’ Attic conversion is the cheapest and could start at around €12,950 Excl Vat.
Dormer Attic Extension
The second option which does not require dramatic changes to the roof is to do the above and add dormer windows. This will increase the useable floorspace and can be used to add head height which gives you more options when it comes to placement of the stairs. This will cost upwards of €16,000 Excl Vat.
Attic Conversions Which Involve ‘Raising the Roof’ or Changing the Roof Structure
This option is the most expensive as it require the removal and rebuild of the existing roof. It also requires planning permission approval so you local planning permission application cost must be added on.
Another added expense will be the additional design work that may be needed as it is more complicated that a room in roof, or dormer Attic conversion..
How can I Convert my Attic With a Low Head Height?
If the initial roof space inspection reveals a head height of less than 2.2m, there are two available – but costly – solutions that will require professional input.
Solution 1: Raise the Roof
This would involve removing part or whole of the existing roof, and rebuilding it to give the required height and structure. This is structurally feasible, but the major problems are the high cost and getting planning permission approval. If the whole roof area needs removing, a covered scaffold structure, to protect the house from the weather during the works, would also be required.
Solution 2: Lower the Ceiling in the Room Below
The ceiling height in some rooms in older properties may be 3m or more, so if the roof space height is limited there is the option of lowering the ceilings below, providing it still allows at least 2.4m. This will require all the existing ceilings in question to be removed, causing much mess. With this method a plate will need to be bolted to the wall using shield anchors or rawlbolts, for the new floor joists to hang from. There is also a need for a suitable tie between the roof structure and the dwarf wall formed, to prevent the roof spreading. Any DIY involvement will be limited to supervised demolition and clearing up.
New Ceiling Joists
The existing ceiling joists are unlikely to be adequate to take a conversion floor, so additional new joists will be required to comply with the Building Regulations. The size and grade would have been specified by the structural engineer, who will have taken into account the span and the separation distance for a given loading.
The new joists span between load-bearing walls, and are normally raised slightly above the existing ceiling plasterwork by using spacers below the joist ends. This spacing must be sufficient to prevent any new floor joist deflection from touching the ceiling plaster below. The new joists run alongside the existing joists. Above window and door openings, thicker timbers are used to bridge the opening, so that pressure is not put on the existing opening lintel.
Rolled steel joists (known as RSJs) are also specified to distribute the load, and in some installations are used to carry the ends of the new joists. If head height is limited, then thicker joists, more closely spaced, can be specified.

Attic Insulation
The roof structure can be insulated in one of two main ways:
Cold Roof Attic Insulation
The most straightforward is to use a ‘cold roof’ method. This involves filling the space between the rafters with 70mm-thick slab foam insulation such as Celotex, ensuring that there is 50mm spacing between the roofing felt and the insulation (for ventilation via the roof and soffit vents).
In addition, 30mm slab insulation is attached to the inside of the rafters, giving a total of 100mm of insulation. The rafter thickness is often less than 120mm, so a batten may be required along each rafter to allow the 50mm spacing and the 70mm insulation. The roof section requires 300mm of mineral wool insulation (e.g. Rockwool), or 150mm of slab foam insulation, such as Celotex.
Warm Roof Attic Insulation
The other main method is ‘warm roof’. This method uses 100mm Celotex insulation or similar over the rafters, and a covering capping, followed by the tile battens and tiles. This is not really a practical option unless the roof coverings have been stripped off. It could be used with a dormer, especially if it has a Flat roof.
Continuity of insulation between walls and roof is required to avoid any cold bridging. The dormer walls can be insulated with 100mm Celotex between the studwork. The internal partition walls use a 100mm quilt that will provide sound insulation. Plasterboard is attached to one side of the wall then the quilt inserted, followed by plasterboard on the other side. Insulation is also placed between floor joists, and this is typically 100mm-thick Rockwool fibre or similar — mainly for its sound-reduction properties.

Staircase to Your Attic Extension
The ideal location for a staircase to land is in line with the roof ridge: this will make best use of the available height above the staircase.
The minimum height requirement above the pitch line is 2m, although this could be reduced to 1.9m in the centre, and 1.8m to the side of a stair. In practice, the actual position will depend upon the layout of the floor below, and where necessary the available height can be achieved using a dormer or adding a rooflight above the staircase or, if appropriate, converting a hip roof end to a gable.
Maximum Number of Steps: The Building Regulations specify that the maximum number of steps in a straight line is 16. This is not normally a problem, as a typical installation usually only requires 13 steps.
Step Size: The maximum step rise is 220mm, whereas the step depth or ‘going’ is a minimum of 220mm; these measurements are taken from the pitch point. The step normally has a nose that projects 16-20mm in front of the pitch line. However, the ratio of size must not exceed the maximum angle of pitch requirement of 42°. Any winders must have a minimum of 50mm at the narrowest point. The width of steps is unregulated, but in practice the winders are likely to limit the reduction in width.
Balustrading: The height minimum is 900mm above the pitch line, and any spindles must have a separation distance that a 100mm sphere cannot pass through.
Windows and Dormer Windows for Attic Conversions
The Attic room will require a means of getting natural light and ventilation.
Rooflights for Attic conversions
The most straightforward method is to use rooflights that follow the pitch line of the roof. This type is fitted by removing the tiles and battens where the rooflight will be fitted. The rafters are cut to make way for the rooflight after suitably reinforcing the remaining rafters.The rooflight frame is then fitted and flashings added before making good the surrounding tiling.
This type of window is the most economic, and more likely to be allowed without planning permission, under your Permitted Development rights. Conservation rooflights, which are slightly more flush to the roofline and are made of metal, can also be specified.
Dormer Windows
Dormers not only give natural light but can add space to a Attic extension; they can be at the ends or sides. They are particularly effective where the pitch angle is high, as the useful floor area can be increased. The mansard type will give maximum conversion roof space because it projects the maximum available head height, thus giving a greater usable floor area. A hip to gable conversion has a similar effect.
Dormers and other similar conversions are normally installed by opening up the roof, and cutting the required specified timbers to size on site. Care also needs to be taken with the roof and side coverings, to get a good weatherproof structure.
Dormers can have gabled or hip roofs, and with careful design can enhance a roof line. In practice, a mixture of the available types can result in the maximum light and space, and provide a fire exit.

Attic Conversion Fire Safety
The plasterboard ceiling in the upper rooms will delay the spread of fire to the roof space in an unconverted house. However, when an opening is introduced for the staircase the risk is shared with the Attic conversion — therefore, safeguards must be in place to reduce the risk.
• All habitable rooms in the upper storeys served by a single staircase should have an escape window with an obstructed openable area of at least 0.33m², a minimum 450mm high x 450mm wide, and not more than 1.1m above the floor level.
• For Attic conversions to existing two storey houses, more stringent provisions apply, due to the greater risk associated with escape via high-level windows.
• These require a new 30-minute fire-resistant floor to the Attic conversion.
• They also need a protected 30-minute fire-resistant stair enclosure discharging to its own final exit, with fire doors to all rooms (except bathrooms and WC). The fire doors do not need to be self-closing.
• At least one mains-operated smoke alarm with battery backup must be installed in the circulation space of each storey. All alarms are to be interconnected.